Secret trails of the North

From Hanoi, the itinerary quickly leaves behind the urban bustle to join roads that gradually head deeper into the mountains. The change in atmosphere is gradual: the city gives way to rural expanses, then to the first green undulations of Mai Chau.

After about four hours on the road, arrival in the village of Poom Coom marks a first pause in the journey’s pace. A short walk provides an opportunity to connect with the Thai community, observe how the village is organized and grasp the scale of this rural area, where life revolves around crops and the seasons. Lunch, prepared with local produce, is part of this first simple immersion—without artifice, yet already deeply rooted in the daily lives of the inhabitants.

In the afternoon, the road continues towards Pu Luong Nature Reserve. The landscape gradually changes, revealing more pronounced relief, deep valleys and terraced rice fields tracing the hillsides. It is in this setting that the trip’s first hike begins. For around three hours, the trails alternate between farm tracks, forest sections and crossings of small, isolated hamlets. The pace is steady, sometimes slower on the climbs, leaving time to watch the valleys opening out in the distance.

At the end of the day, arrival in a village and settling into a traditional stilt house mark an important stage. The simple architecture, open to the outdoors, allows you to stay as close as possible to the environment. Dinner, shared with the hosts, extends this first immersion in local life, before a quiet night in a fully rural setting.

The second day begins in a peaceful atmosphere, still carried by the village’s tranquility. The pace is slow, almost suspended, before gradually picking up again with breakfast and the day’s preparations. At 8 a.m., departure marks the start of a deeper exploration of Pu Luong.

This day of walking reveals another face of the nature reserve. The trails are more discreet, sometimes narrow, winding between terraced rice fields and cultivated valleys. The landscapes shift gently, without abrupt breaks: a continuous alternation of fields, forest and scattered villages. You pass through inhabited areas where local life unfolds to the rhythm of agricultural activities, in great simplicity.

Throughout the walk, viewpoints regularly open onto the surrounding relief. The valleys reveal themselves in successive layers, offering a very graphic reading of the land, shaped by generations of farmers. A picnic lunch fits naturally into this continuity, right in the heart of the reserve, in a calm, unspoilt environment.

In the afternoon, the trail gradually leads towards Hieu Village. The approach is gentle, with the appearance of water and the sound of the waterfall accompanying your arrival. Hieu Waterfall then becomes a focal point for the end of the day, a place where the landscape shifts tempo. Free time allows you to wander through the village, observe local life or simply stay by the water, in a very soothing atmosphere.

The day ends on site with dinner and an overnight stay in a homestay or an ecolodge depending on the arrangements planned. The setting remains simple, surrounded by nature, with a feeling of complete retreat from the main routes.

The final morning continues in the same calm atmosphere. Hieu Village reveals itself once more at a slow pace, with the possibility of enjoying these last moments in this natural setting. It is a more contemplative time, when you become more aware of the village sounds, the movement of the water and daily life gradually starting up again.

Then a walk of about 1.5 hours leads to Pho Doan, a small local town where the vehicle awaits for the return to Hanoi. This on-foot transition plays an important role at the end of the trip: it allows you to gradually leave the trails and return to the main roads, while still maintaining a direct connection with the landscape.

Before setting off again, lunch is served at a local restaurant. This last meal follows the spirit of the trip—simple and rooted in the region you’ve travelled through. Afterwards, the journey back to Hanoi takes several hours, through landscapes that are already familiar but perceived differently after these two days of walking.

As you make your way back, the relief softens, villages grow denser, then the capital gradually reappears. Arrival at the end of the day marks the close of the trip, with a succession of valleys, trails and simple moments experienced to the rhythm of Northern Vietnam still fresh in mind.